An extraordinary mens blog for the ordinary man
It seems rather odd to be discussing the trends and what we will be wearing next summer, when in the UK it feels as though the summer of 2012 hasn’t even really started to get going yet. Nonetheless, the Menswear Fashion Circus keeps on rolling and its second major stop on the international circuit is Milan, Italy, where things are altogether a lot more summery with temperatures up into the 90’s. The feeling of Milan is very different to London, this is where the Fashion heavyweights come out to play, Gucci, Prada, Armani, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana all call Milan home and know how to put on a good show.
First off was Jil Sander who had attracted a great deal of interest, as it was her first show back heading up her label since she left in 2004, the range itself didn’t live up to expectations, but we look forward to see what Jil conjures up in January, for her next show.
Then over to an aforementioned Milanese, or more correctly Sicilian heavyweights Dolce & Gabbana, the duo for this season cast predominately non-models for their show, opting for , what looked like, residents of local Sicilian villages to rely their message in a more obvious manner. They managed to achieve a very authentic look without it appearing costume like and a highly colourful collection which at the same time was commercial and should keep their customers and potential customers flocking to their boutiques across the globe.
Flagging the flag for the UK, as ever, was Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum, who seemed to be drawing inspiration from the true British summer weather, in essence he seems to be as pissed off with the weather as we all are. He showcased a range which was heavy on the rain protection and followed the maxim of, “Be safe be seen,” with fluro metallic jackets, macs and trousers, not sure if they’ll be a winner but great for safety in those long, dark, rainy nights.
Trend alert ! as Bruce Pask of The New York Times, T Magazine pointed out, “Black socks with sandals were all over the London Collections:Men. Here again with Burbery Metallics.” Oh no surely not a return to Geography Teacher field trip attire, I guarantee a trend that won’t be seeing a return!
The day was finitoed, with that glitzyist of Italian Dynasties, Versace. OK then, where do I start, well I was after a show and boy did I get one. Donatella decided for this season her muses were Elvis, Rocky & Mr T, yes honestly, so think Wrestemania hits Vegas, complete with championship belts !!! I kid you not. Also, we saw Chace Crawford (Gossip Girl), Hayden Christensen (Star Wars) & Rachel Bilson(The O.C) sat front row.
For Calvin Klein Collection, helmed by Italo Zucchelli, it returned to its all American roots, denim, the bomber jack and soft tailoring, were all displayed offering a highly wearable and contemporary manner.
Next up Prada, errrr, well, Versace was definitely a show and at one end of the spectrum, but I’m afraid Prada was at the other end. Maybe it’s me and it went over me head and was far too intellectual for me, but I didn’t really get it. I loved the colour palette used, I loved many of the clothes for their simplicity and that it reminded me of many 1970’s sci-fi shows suggesting how we will dress in the future. But it left me cold and certainly not what you expect from a Master like Miuccia Prada.
Frida Giannini, for the House of Gucci, offered an explosion of colour for SS13, but all in a completely desirable and masculine direction. Robert Johnston, Associate Editor of GQ, best summed this up, “Beautiful colours really cool, it was like chic Rock & Roll rather then out & out Playboy. Discreetly glamourous and overall very, very wearable”.
One of my favourite collections from Milan was a presentation rather then a show and came via another Brit on the circuit, the newly OBE’d, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. Eric Down, Deputy Style Editor, of Men’s Health, described it so well as, “It was everything you could want from a McQueen show, fresh, sexy, with a hint of Lee’s(Alexander McQueen) obsession with the macabre in dragonfly embroidery. Gorgeous soft pastel colours in coral & soft pinks to offset darker looks with strong double breasted silhouettes softened with orchid button holes.”