An extraordinary mens blog for the ordinary man
Following on from yesterday’s post on the first London Collections:Men, today we have the concluding review of the shows, which should, hopefully, put London & the UK back on the Fashion map as a leading Fashion capital in Menswear.
The next port of call was the Superdry emporium over on Regent Street, yes you did read that correctly Superdry, the casual wear brand more famous for their hoodies and t-shirts then their stylistic credentials. Well, no more – let me tell you, because we were here for the launch of their new suit line, or the Sebiro Collection, designed exclusively by the contemporary British tailor, yeah you guessed it, Timothy Everest. A capsule collection designed as a separates ranges to mix and match with Superdry’s existing casual pieces. The launch range has four main trends, The Super Spy, The Bank Robber, The San Franciscan & the Country Rebel. The biggest surprise of the event was, one, the price, at £250 for a suit and the fact that the whole concept from initial conversation to the actual event was turned around in a year, which take it from me, in this industry is nothing short of a miracle.
E.Tautz under the guidance of Patrick Grant, continued the love affair with colour for SS13, the collection was inspired by the British explorer Wilfred Thesiger, Ras Tafari (later Emperor Haile Selassie), and the colour and wildlife of Ethiopia. Grant explained, “The Tautz man has a classic English sensibility mixed with a kind of schoolboy humour; he likes to dress elegantly, but enjoys clothes with wit.” Additionally, this collection played to my dream of having the courage and conviction to wear a cape and not be laughed off the street as a mentalist.
The following show was best surmised up by a true fashion legend and who just happens to also be the Style Director of the UK’s best selling men publication, Shortlist, Adrian Clark. “The stand-out collection from my perspective was shown by Jonathan Saunders. An evolutionary step forward from his autumn line, the intelligent use of colour (chartreuse, bitter lemon, scarlet), wild violet) texture and op-art print, used for what were fundamentally classic shapes and slim silhouette staples, captured the Zeitgeist of the season. My favourite pieces were the optical polka dot prints in gradient colour and graphic patterned knits.”
The next stop on the fashion bus was over with Christopher Shannon, who described his collection as, “I love the summer collection to always feel upbeat and a bit holiday. There were a few things I wanted to go back to and rework in better fabrics with a neater cut. There’s quite a lot of embellishment going on, that’s quite giddy for me. SS13 has touches of Peter Blake and British folk with quite boysy sports pieces.” As part of this collection Shannon has worked with the footwear brand Kickers to produce a number of exclusive styles, which literally set social network Twitter alight on Saturday after the show. Olie Arnold, Fashion Director Oki-ni and fan of Clothes-make-the-man.com, saw this collection as one of his fave’s, “Christopher Shannon has been the strongest so far of the week ! His collections show a designer who has confidence in his aesthetic, yet manages to build upon it season after season.”
After this was a designer who we at Clothes-make-the-man.com sited last season as one to watch and profiled Mr Matthew Miller following on from the rare reception his show received. This season showed how much Matthew had moved on and matured in his design the collection was far more formal and sophisticated. David Watts of the British Fashion Council saw this show as, “Matthew Miller knocks it out of the ballpark with the perfect balance of original detail and classic construction…I want it all.”
Following this, was yet another mad dash across town to East London to Timothy Everest‘s studio, there’s that name yet again. Here we saw a presentation on how the modern man can dress and all he needs and wants for can be supplied by the tailoring master himself. As he puts it himself, “A Timothy Everest garment is always cut like a dream, but there’s also something extra, and sometimes unexpected, going on – all those hand-finished details that make all the difference.”
Now coming to the end of the Fashion express and the close of the very first london Collections:Men, we have a name that has long been associated with British Fashion, despite being quintessentially French, Nicole Farhi, who has returned to London to showcase her Menswear. This collection, is summed up in the words of one of British journalism brightest stars, Jesscia Punter, Style & Grooming Editor of British GQ, “Nicole Farhi was a stand out show for me. Under Massimo Nicosia the house has become very innovative with fabrics. I particularly loved the micro- prints inspired by Brighton’s Royal Pavilion and I am obsessed with the pyjama shirt – which they have done for the second season. It was really polished and marked a real return to luxury for Nicole Farhi and when you break it down each piece is eminently wearable.”
So last but by no means least we come to the finale of the shows for the first and hopefully, not the last, London Collections:Men, Christopher Reaburn. A real talent who epitomises what British style and design is all about, plus a name to look out for on a global stage. Raeburn started his show with a beautifully shot short film, which not only showcased his collection but used the British countryside to maximum effect as a breathtaking backdrop. His almost geeky attention to detail is perfect for menswear and he offers a truly masculine range, which is balanced and has become known for style and function.
So that’s it, London’s done and dusted, on the travelling circus that is the Menswear Fashion week circuit, now just Milan, Paris and New York to go. The BFC must be over the moon with the reception and success of the first LC:M and hopefully are already in talks for the next one in January, to make it bigger and better with, fingers crossed, the help of some big British names like, Sir Paul Smith, Dame Vivienne Westwood and Christopher Bailey of Burberry.